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品书网 > 杂志 > The Wrist Watch, from Luxury to Obsolescence

The Wrist Watch, from Luxury to Obsolescence

时间:2024-10-25 04:50:58

AwatchofZhongshanbrand.

TheauthoratWulinSquare,HangzhouinJune1986.JUSTpriortotheNewYear,mysonsentmeaWeChatmessage,askingmewhatIwantedasaNewYeargift.Sincehehadjuststartedanentry-levelpositionathiscompany,Iknewhehadlittlemoneyforgifts.Assuch,ItoldhimthatIdidn鈥檛needanypresentthisyear.Myreplyseemedtodisappointhim.Tomakehimfeelbetter,Itoldthatifhereallywantedtogetmeagift,Iwouldlikeawatch.Afewdayslater,thewatchwasdeliveredandIlovedit.Itwasverynice,andwelloverRMB1,000.Inthatmoment,IdecidedIwouldwearthiswatchforever.

MyFirstWatch

Surelythemainfunctionofawatchistoindicatethetime.Butawatchcanalsodisplayaperson鈥檚socialstatusandwealth.Thesedays,however,withtheriseofsmartphones,wearingawatchnowseemsalmostunnecessaryindailylife.Forthosewhostillwearone,thewatchismostlyjustanaccessory,likeabraceletoraring.

Beforethe1980s,watcheswereviewedasluxuriesinChina.AwatchofafamousChinesebrandcouldcostRMB120,equivalenttoathree-monthsalaryofanaverageworker.IfitwasimportedfromSwitzerland,itwouldbemuchmoreexpensive.

Somepeopleevenworetheirwatchesinbed.Inwinter,theywouldrolluptheirsleevestoshowofftheirwristwatches.Whentheywantedtoknowthetime,theywouldintentionallyswingtheirarminanexaggeratedmannertoremindpeoplethatheorshehadawatch.

BeforeItookmyfirstcollegeentranceexamin1982,theteachercautionedustobettermanageourtimeduringthetest,andthatwasmosteasilyachievedbywearingawatch.However,myimpoverishedfamilycouldnotaffordone,andnoneofmyrelativeshadone.Seeingallmyclassmateswiththeirwatcheson,Iwasoverwhelmedwithshameanddisappointment.Onanunrelatednote,Ifailedtheexam,butsodidmanyofmywatch-wearingclassmates.

Thenextyear,mymother,usingalmostallofhersavings,boughtmeawatchworthRMB30.Despitethelarge,unsightlyfaceofthewatch,Icouldtellthetimeanyway.Idecidedtotakethecollegeentranceexamagain,thistimewearingmynewwatch.However,thinkingbacktothattest,I鈥檓notsurewhetherIeverevencheckedthetime.

ThefirstwatchIboughtmyselfwasanelectronicone.ItcostmeRMB7.However,itwasnotwaterproof.Onerainyday,Ireturnedhomebyridingatractorwithnoroof.Myelectronicwatchwassoaked,andasIhadexpected,didn鈥檛workanymore.Mymotherscoldedmeharshlyformyfoolishmistake.IwasverydejectedandhidundermyblanketuntilIfellasleep,stillwearingmybroken,electronicwatch.Duetothewarmthofmybody,thewaterevaporatedandluckily,mywatchstartedtoworkagain!Despitethismomentarysuccess,itwasshort-lived,asthewatcheventuallyfailedtoturnonandIknewtherewasnowaytofixit.AfterIstartedworkandfinallymadeadecentsalary,Iboughtmultiplewatches,mostofwhichwereprettycheap.Then,likeeveryoneelse,Ibegantousethemobilephonewhichsoonreplacedmyneedforawatch.TheproductionplantofShanghaiNo.3WatchFactory,photographedin1986.ATreasuredObject

Thegenerationborninthe1950sand60shaveexperiencedthecountry鈥檚tremendouschangesunderthereformandopening-upinarangeofaspects,includingpolitics,economy,education,culture,values,andlifestyle.Thechangingpositionofwatchintheirlifereflectsthecountry鈥檚growth.

Iwasbornintoaruralfamily.Myparentsearnedameagerincometosupportthewholefamily.Topaytheirchildren鈥檚tuitionandbooks,theyhadtoborrowmoney.Inanerawheremanypeoplecouldn鈥檛affordthingslikewatches,wirebroadcasting,whichindicatedeachnewhour,becamepeople鈥檚bestwaytokeeptrackoftime.Backthen,ruralChinesepeoplerarelymadetripsbybusortrain,letaloneplane.Therefore,therewasnorealreasonforthemtoneedtoknowtheexacttime;aroughcalculationwouldbeok.Duetothis,awatchwasactuallynotanecessityforthem,butdespitethis,theystilllongedtohaveone.

Backthen,ruralpeoplewhopossessedawatchwerethosewhohadajoborenjoyedprestigeintheirregions.Itwasaneraofplannedeconomy,andalmostalljobswereprovidedbythegovernmentorthestateownedsector.Ruralpeopleunanimouslycalledthosewhoworkedforthegovernmentorthestate-ownedsectorgongzuoren,meaningpeoplewhohadajob.Forthosewithoutmoneyorajob,awatchcostingmorethanRMB100wasnothingmorethanadream.Iftheysawsomeonewholuckilyownedone,mostpeoplecouldonlyexpressmixedfeelingsofadmirationandenvy.Tomakeone鈥檚fortuneandbeabletoaffordawatchandwell-madeclothes,ruralchildrenhadtostudyhardandgetacceptedtocollege,andthentheycouldbecomeagongzuoren.Myparentsdrilledthisintometoinspiremetostudyhard.Thethreemajoritems,consistingofawatch,abike,andasewingmachine,wereonceatokenofahappylifeinthe1970sandearly80sinChina.Atthattime,inbothruralandurbanareas,fornewlyweds,awristwatch,abike,andasewingmachinewereregardedasthemostdesireditemsonecouldhave.InruralChina,ifafamilycouldaffordoneortwooutofthethreeitems,thechancesfortheirsontomarryagirlweredrasticallyhigher.Irememberinourvillage,therewasayoungmanwhobecameinfatuatedwithagirl.Thetwowerebothintoeachotherandlaterstartedtotalkaboutmarriage.However,thegirl鈥檚parentsinsistedtheboyshouldbuythegirlawatch.Failingtocollectenoughmoneytobuythewatch,theyoungmanhadtoendtheirrelationship.Thiswasnotararecaseinruralareas.

Inthatera,peopleevencreatedcomicalsongstoexpresstheimportanceofthethreeitems.Feige,Yongjiu,andFenghuang,oncethemostfamousbikebrandsinChina,togetherwiththeHudiebrandforsewingmachinesandShanghaibrandforwatches,oncerepresentedthemanufacturinglevelofChina鈥檚lightindustry.However,forthecommonpeople,thesebrandsrepresentedaluxurylife.

IntotheFuture

AsChina鈥檚reformandopening-updrivekickedoff,people鈥檚creativitythathadbeenpentupforsolongwassuddenlyunleashed.Bythemid-1980s,thesupplyofwatcheshadincreased,withmanybrandsappearinginruralshops.Theformerthreemajoritemsfornewlywedshadmorphedintothreenewones鈥揳TVset,arefrigerator,andanairconditioner.Withanincreasedaverageincomeandincreasedsupplyofgoods,watcheshadbecomeanordinaryobjectinpeople鈥檚dailylife.Thus,itsroleasatokenofwealthdiminished.

Duringthe1990s,awidevarietyofwatchesbecameavailableforChinesecustomers.Apartfromthetradi-tionalmechanicalwatch,quartzandelectronicwatchesquicklybecamethefavoritesamongChineseyouth.Byconstantlyintroducingnewmodelsandfeatures,theglitteringwatchadvertisementsonTVexposedconsumerstoadazzlingarrayofchoices.Withinaperiodofadecadeormore,manybigchangesoccurredinChina.Peoplecouldn鈥檛helpbutmarvelatthegreatachievementsofthecountry鈥檚reformandopening-upandapplaudtheleadership鈥檚wisedecisions.

IoncetookatrainingsessionabouthowthedetailsdeterminesuccessorfailureofChina鈥檚domesticwatchindustry.Intheindustry鈥檚heyday,theHangzhoubasedwatchbrandYingxiong,inordertoimproveitsaccuracyandrivalwiththeShanghaibrand,investedalottoimportwatchpartsfromSwitzerland,whichwereassembledinitsfactory.Theerrorofthebrand鈥檚watchdecreasedto45secondsfromoneminute,butstillfailedtomeettheirgoalof30seconds.Tofixthis,thewatchfactorysentitstechnicianstoSwitzerlandtostudythewatch-makingprocess.IttookthemtwomonthsandUS$1milliontofinallyfindasolution:toachieveahighaccuracyrate,beforeassemblingtheparts,theyneededtobesoakedinkerosene.Bydoingthis,theirwatches鈥檃ccuracyimprovedby50percent.TheChinesewatchbrandFIYTAdisplaysitsproductsatanexhibition.Nowadays,thepopularityofcellphoneshasfurtherdiminishedthetimingroleofawatchinpeople鈥檚life.WiththeadventoftheInternet,bigdata,andAI,traditionalindustrieshaveexperiencedthehardshipsoftransformationandtechnologicalupgrading.Seemingly,smartphonesareoftenviewedastheculpritstranglingmanytraditionalindustries.Previouslyboomingbrandshavenowwanedwhilenewdomesticwatchbrandsareontherise.Theirexquisitewatchesaremorelikeworksofart,butstillfailtoimpressconsumers,noraretheyabletocompetewithinternationallyfamedluxurywatchbrands,whicharestillviewedasasymbolofwealthandsocialstatus.

Despitetheminutedifferencesbetweendomesticallyproducedwatchesandtheworld-renownedwatchbrandsintermsofproductiontechnologyandquality,theirdisparityindetailsdecidestheirpositioninthemarket.Inthissense,China鈥檚watchindustrystillhasalongwaytogo.IlookforwardtothedaywheninternationalconsumerswillscrambletobuyChina-madewatchesasatokenoftheirsocialstatus.C

WANGZHUSHENGisthegeneralofficedirectorofZhejiangTianshiNanotechnologyCo.,Ltd.
   

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